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Pt. 1, Pt. 2, Pt. 3

French and Koomjian know a champion when they see one. By the time they arrive at a champion tree, they have thoroughly researched the species, have most likely climbed that species a few times already and have a pretty good sense of what to expect. However, nothing completely prepares them for the moment when they first lay their eyes on one.

They usually have to hunt for the tree. In many cases, it has not been documented in forty years, so no one knows for sure if it is alive or dead or where, exactly, it is. It can take hours to find. But when they do, they know it immediately. There is the heart-pounding, deep breath, moment of awe and then wild running around.

French describes it this way, “You see it and you know that’s it. You run up to it and you yell, ‘Oh my god.’ Every time. ‘Oh my god. Holy s**t. F**k.’ Every word you can think of. ‘This is it! Oh my god! Whoa!’ That response has never changed.”

For Koomjian, the feeling is similar. “When you see that champion you finally know what that species is capable of. It is an astounding experience. We spend a good thirty minutes running around yelling, ‘Oh my god! Look at that! Dude! Did you see this?’ pointing out all the unique features of the tree.”

And then they climb. And, if they can, they spend all day soaking in the wonder.

Talking with French and Koomjian about trees is an odyssey. They are packed with stories and tree facts. They alternately argue with the tenacity, familiarity and generosity of an old married couple and then can wax poetic about these magnificent creatures.

Koomjian’s favorite tree fact is this: According to the father of modern arboriculture, Alex Shigo, 95% of the sun’s energy that hits the earth is not absorbed by anything. But, 50% of the energy that is absorbed is absorbed by trees. The rest is split up among everything else. Trees are the number one producer of life-sustaining energy on the planet.

French’s favorite tree fact is this: C.O.D.I.T.—the compartmentalization of decay in trees. When you inflict a wound on a tree, there are walls set up to close off those areas. A vertical, inside and radial wall each chemically close off the area to stop further pathogens from entering. The 4th wall, called the ‘glass’ wall, is also called the healing wall. It closes off the area creating a ‘compartment’ that the rest of the tree then grows around. French loves the fact that every part of every cell of a tree is set up to defend itself against the outside world.

Every champion tree is uniquely remarkable because it has cultivated one-of-a-kind techniques for surviving in the world for as long as it has. The Baker Cypress, Cupressus bakeri, is an especially fascinating species. First, it is a very rare tree. There are only nine stands of these trees in the world and they are all in the Siskiyou mountains in Southern Oregon and Northern California. It is a slow-growing, small conifer that reaches approximately 100-feet tall. It grows on serpentine soils atop old lava flows that other trees in the area, like Grand Fir, Abies grandis, and Sugar Pine, Pinus lambertiana, find very unwelcoming. That’s what gives the Baker Cypress it’s niche. French and Koomjian debated the species’ status:

French: It is listed as near-threatened.

Koomjian: No, it’s…

French: Wait, no, it’s endangered.

Koomjian: No, it’s vulnerable which is between near-threatened and endangered.

French: No, it is near-threatened.

Koojian: No, I’m pretty sure it is vulnerable.

French: Alright.

(pause)

Koomjian: I mean, you could look it up, but….

French: OK. (to writer) Look up Baker Cypress.

The conservation status is ‘vulnerable.’ It is generally accepted that climate change is going to whack the Baker Cypress, Cupressus bakeri, because it is such a niche-species. If its niche changes, it doesn’t have anywhere to go. It is already exceptionally rare. Wikipedia states that it is one of the rarest trees in North America, including Mexico.

French and Koomjian jumped at the chance to measure the champion, which was last measured in 1976. Rumor had it that the original champion had fallen, but no one knew for sure. On Thanksgiving day, 2007, French, Koomjian, O’Connor and Waller packed up for a weekend expedition that included measuring three additional trees on the way to the Baker Cypress, Cupressus bakeri. Incidentally, just before leaving, they received word that one of the trees on their list, the national champion Sitka Mountain Ash, Sorbus sitchensis, that they had intended to re-measure and update on the registry, had been unknowingly cut down for firewood.

An unexpected snow fell in the Siskiyous just north of the California border. The crew arrived in the evening, set up camp along a forest service road and ice collected on the bottom of their tree boats—hammocks made for sleeping in trees—as they slept. In the morning, after navigating a washed-out bridge, they continued up into the mountains. Old records indicated that the champion was located in a watershed and the crew split up to find it. Sun peeked through the morning quiet of the snow-covered trees. After a few hours of traversing the slippery mountainside, there was no champion in sight.  Everyone was frustrated and worried that it might not be found. French re-traced his steps up a steep slope and came upon a giant, fallen tree. It was the one. The snow-covered, sun-bleached, gnarled champion had fallen perhaps decades before.

Having come such a long way, it seemed a waste to leave now. Besides, they were standing in and around the few rare groves of Baker Cypress, Cupressus bakeri, that existed in the entire world. The crew did what is natural to them: search for a new champion. They knew that the old champion was the only listing in Oregon and that the California champion (the only other state where Baker Cypress is found) had relatively small dimensions. It was clear that when they found it, ATG would likely be nominating the new national champion.

The grove they explored was shaped like a thin ribbon running down the ridge on top of the old lava flow. After walking from one end of the grove to the other, they returned to a tree which was the largest tree in the grove. Due to the delicate nature of the species’ bark, it was decided that only one person should climb the tree to reduce impact. Koomjian shimmied up and measured 96-feet tall. Easily the new national champion.

Even though French and Koomjian are packed with forest facts and stories as wild as the trees they measure are tall, they can’t seem to get enough. For it doesn’t matter how much they know, they will always be exploring when they meet a new champion.  In early 2009, Will Koomjian set off on his own dime to continue tree measuring in Indonesia. French will keep ATG measuring in the States until his partner returns within the year. After all, there are still 189 species with no known champion.

Recently, when debating whether humans or trees were more complex beings, French and Koomjian agreed that it was an apples and oranges comparison, but one could make the case that a tree is more complex.

Koomjian said, “You could make the case for a tree when you consider everything that has ever happened in its entire life is still a part of that tree. General Sherman has 2300-years of cells and their responses to thousands of external and internal organisms inside the trunk. Humans get rid of cells. We’re constantly shedding. We don’t have skin cells that are more than a few months old. Some trees have cells in their bodies that are 2000 years old—2000 years of reacting to the world outside. So, I think you could definitely make the case that trees are sufficiently complex.”

French added, “Think about it, with 45,000 square feet of living tissue, we are nothing compared to that.”

Together, they sat in the moment of silence considering the possibility.

Pt. 1, Pt. 2, Pt. 3

A Forest is Forever

Published in Ode magazine, April 2009

If a tree falls in a sustainably managed forest, does it have market value? Peter and Pam Hayes would like the answer to be an unequivocal “yes.” The Hayes manage Hyla Woods, an 800-acre, family-owned forest in the northern Oregon Coast Range that produces sustainably managed timber certified by the Forest Stewardship Council. Their goal is to create an ecologically complex, economically viable, responsibly operated forest. Noble pursuits such as these often get tripped up by the “economically viable” part. But borrowing some lessons from agriculture’s success in engaging local communities, the couple thinks it can make the woods work.

As a fifth-generation Oregonian whose family has always had a hand in the logging industry, Peter Hayes is familiar with the traditional business model. Many forest owners have simplified their land into industrial plantations of single species such as, say, Douglas fir. Homogenizing the landscape in this way increases profitability because it’s cheaper to clear-cut a uniform plot than to log an area with lots of different species. Clear-cutting may increase profit in the short term, but the Hayes believe a forest with multiple species and trees of many ages is a better long-term investment. A diversified plot is more resilient, produces better-quality wood and can sustain production for generations

The Hayes knew there was a demand for their FSC-certified wood, but finding a mill to manage FSC logs separately was close to impossible. So, the forestry duo got creative about ways to get their logs directly into the hands of end users. First, Hyla Woods began operating its own mill three years ago. Then, they borrowed farming’s community-supported agriculture (CSA) model to create a community-connected forest (CCF). A CSA invites locals to buy shares in the farm in exchange for a regular produce delivery. The CCF allows locals to help maintain the forest and get first dibs on firewood and FSC-certified wood products. In addition, through the Build Local Alliance and Forest Partners program, builders and foresters work closely to sustain each other’s businesses. Hyla Woods supplies FSC-certified materials to local contractors and furniture makers who reciprocate by committing to build green and buy local. So far, this symbiosis is paying off, despite the recession. The community-connected aspects of the Hyla Woods business are holding up far better than the mainstream commodity wood market. And now, when a tree falls in Hyla Woods, the Hayes know exactly which floor, chair, or fireplace it will end up in.

(Published in Travel Oregon magazine)

Celebrating 150 years of the Oregon spirit

For as long as there has been an Oregon territory, there has existed a spirit unique to the people that choose to call Oregon home. Many hyphenated words come to mind: die-hard, nature-loving, independent-minded, do-it-yourselfers who are salt-of-the-earth, fun-loving, free-spirits who tend to make-it-up-as-we-go. This particular concoction of personality traits is responsible for impossible visions, like picturing a world-class running shoe made with rubber and a waffle iron (Nike) and having a hunch that the world’s most fickle grape just might make it in our hills (Pinot Noir). Judge Jessie Quinn Thornton was right on the money when he wrote the state motto and then translated it into Latin for the territorial seal in 1854: Alis volat Propriis, ‘She flies with her own wings.’

On this 150th anniversary of statehood, let us introduce you to a few Oregonians who soar:

Roberta “Bobbie” Conner – Culture Preserver and Director, Tamastslikt Cultural Institute

Bobbie Conner has driven most of the western United States, moving for work with a dog or a horse or both, but it is the expansiveness of Eastern Oregon where she feels ‘home.’ She loves that there is still room to roam the land for miles surrounding the town of Pendleton where she was born and raised. Conner took a hiatus for college and her early career, but returned home to be the Director of the Tamastslikt Cultural Institute eleven years ago.

But, it is not just her connection to the land that makes Eastern Oregon home; it was also home for her mother, her grandmother and her great-grandmother. In fact, Conner’s lineage goes back thousands of years along the lower Columbia River. Conner’s ancestry is Umatilla, Cayuse and Nez Perce Indian with a dash of Scotch-Irish (hence, her surname).

Conner took for granted that everyone knew their lineage. Growing up, she was surrounded by her extended family (she has 36 first cousins) known as a ‘kinship’ system that passes Native cultural traditions and oral history from elders to children. It was only when she left for college that she realized that her connection to the Native people and land of Eastern Oregon was truly unique.

It was also when she understood that no one had heard the story of her tribal people. “There were the stereotypes of Indians circling wagons on the Oregon Trail, but that’s not exactly how things happened here,” she says. No one knew the stories of the hospitality and generosity, taking care of the early travelers with meager means or the ways in which the tribes had inhabited the abundant landscape for thousands of years. It is these stories that Conner now devotes her life to telling as the Director of the Tamástslikt Cultural Institute in Pendelton (Tamástslikt means turn, translate or interpret in Wallulapum, the native language of the Walla Walla Indians).

Conner is very busy. Tamástslikt welcomes 30,000 visitors a year. The Institute has hosted 178 public programs, 51 temporary exhibits in ten years and maintains permanent exhibits and collections of Native artifacts. Then, there is the involvement in the tribal history book, As Days Go By, the tribal place-names atlas to be released in 2009 and a regional oral history driving tour available on CD to name but a few Tamastslikt projects. Conner also serves on three boards, writes and speaks nationally about cultural preservation. 

While proud, Conner takes a humble view of what she has achieved. “Not all the accomplishments are the kind that make headlines,” she says. Another sense of accomplishment comes from the fact that the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla have provided a homeland, jobs, stability and the continuity of their culture that was at risk of being lost. Young families have the chance to raise their children to know their language, customs and ‘kinship.’ This is the real accomplishment for Bobbie Conner: building the legacy of her homeland and her people that will be celebrated for decades to come.

Johnny Sundstrom – Forest and Salmon Saver – Director, The Siuslaw Institute

When Johnny Sundstrom talks about the Siuslaw National Forest and surrounding land that lies like a 630-thousand-acre strip running from Tillamook to Coos Bay, he can wax poetic. Describing the yearly return of salmon to spawn, he first laughs and says, “The biggest Chinook come first in the lowest water. They need a bicycle or a pogo stick to get up here!” Then, he reverently describes the tremendous beauty of the ritual and how it has influenced him. “I wanted to make sure I could always have that in my life.”

In the 1980s, the salmon population was approximately 4% of what had been recorded in historical documents. A variety of factors contributed to this decline, including rigorous logging. For example, enough timber had been harvested on federal land near his home in the tiny town of Deadwood from 1960 to 1990 to build a walkway to the moon.  When Sundstrom recognized that the salmon were threatened, he knew he had to take action.

Action for Sundstrom has included involvement with his conservation district at the local, regional and national level. In 1994, he founded the Siuslaw Institute, a natural resource management non-profit that serves as the glue between federal, state, and local agencies and land owners. Sundstrom recognized that these parties rarely talked to each other to resolve natural resource problems that effected the entire region. If they did talk, they often came to the table with divergent interests. Environmentalists and loggers, for example, are notorious for emotionally-charged conflicts that tend to end up in court.

Sundstrom has made an art of navigating this type of complexity.  In 2000, Congress instituted stewardship contracting to encourage collections of individuals and organizations to work with the Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management on forest restoration that served the local community. The Siuslaw Stewardship Group was the pilot program and Sundstrom was one of the original members.

The group focused on practices like forest thinning rather than clear cutting and then re-invested timber sales back into local restoration projects. The Siuslaw National Forest has come to be known by some as the ‘profit-making, litigation-free forest.’ With 94% of the forest designated for habitat preservation, the group has met and exceeded their timber production target for the last ten years. Not to mention, preserved one of Oregon’s prized forests.

Sundstrom and the Siusalw Institute, as part of another coalition of agencies, also earned the prestigious International Theiss Riverprize for the Siuslaw River Basin Restoration in 2004.

Sundstrom’s secret to navigating the complex terrain of natural resource management? He is the guy who can translate federal-speak to into local language and vice-versa. “If you want somebody who can talk to a landowner about erosion or tree planting, they better be able to talk about the track coach and whether or not we should fire the sun-of-a-gun or not. That’s what allows people to feel you care about them,” he explains. “It’s around the kitchen table or the back of the pick-up where reality meets government. That’s what I do.”

 

Susan Sokol Blosser – Pinot Noir Pioneer and Founder, Sokol Blosser Winery

Susan Sokol Blosser knows how the winds of change can whip through a life. She laughs when she remembers herself in a debutante gown with elegant gloves at the tender age of eighteen and then a decade or so later wearing overalls and driving a tractor.

Founding and running a vineyard and winery had not originally been in the plans for Sokol Blosser, but who needs plans when you’ve got instincts, a VW bus and the gumption of a kid in their twenties? These were the seeds that started the Sokol Blosser Winery in 1970 which has since grown into an internationally-acclaimed, LEED-certified winery that helped establish Oregon as a world-class wine region.

Susan and Bill Sokol Blosser were recent liberal arts grads married just four years when Bill got the idea to grow grapes. The big question was whether it should happen in California or Oregon. Bill Blosser started teaching urban planning at Portland State University and the couple began their research that included visits to the rural hills of the Willamette Valley outside of Portland. It was on one of these trips that they learned of a handful of others who had recently had a similar instinct: David Lett, Dick Erath, Dick and Nancy Ponzi. The collective hunch was that the fickle Pinot Noir grape could thrive in Oregon’s mild climate. The young couple purchased eighteen acres in the Dundee Hills for $800 an acre five months after the idea popped up. Two weeks later, the Sokol Blossers also gave birth to their first son and, between the two newborns, their life was forever changed.

The entire wine industry could fit into any one of the enterprising vintners’ living rooms in the early days as they discussed the right way to trellis or how far apart to plant vines. Sokol Blosser spent the bulk of the 1970s raising three children, teaching American History at a local college periodically and assisting her husband at the winery. Over the next two decades, Sokol Blosser continued to blaze one trail after another. First, she began managing the vineyard and became a ‘weather junkie’ and studied the vines to calculate the best time for harvest. Then, she took over as President in 1991 juggling everything from motherhood and marketing to decisions about wine production. She also found herself in the unique position of being one of the few female presidents in the industry. And, she championed the ‘greening’ of the business from organic farming methods to becoming the world’s first LEED-certified winery.

The Oregon wine industry has grown from five vineyards in 1970 to 370 in 2007. Confident that the industry and winery are finally successful, Susan Sokol Blosser has passed the winery on to her children, Alex and Alison, in 2008. “The big transfer of power was giving my Radio Shack weather band radio to Alex,” she jokes. “Now he can listen to the hourly updates.” Now, Susan Sokol Blosser can enjoy living life on the vineyard that she cultivated.

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